Author Archives: bowtie6

Spanish Paella

One of my favourite Spanish dishes is paella.  This is a dish that goes back to my childhood – my grandfather taught me all about paella at an early age.  When the missus and I visited Spain the last time we went to Europe, we made it a point to search for authentic paella.  Fortunately we did indeed find the real deal and I took plenty of notes and even bought a couple of books.

The above picture shows the fully assembled paella in the special dish used to cook it.  What is in paella?  Basically it is a rice dish that includes quite a number of tasty items.  Today’s version is a modified ‘a la Valenciana‘ – including chicken, Spanish chorizo and shrimp.  Not any rice will do though: it requires arroz bomba – a spanish rice with a special shape that lends itself to being cooked this way.  A sofrito of bell peppers, onion and garlic is the base and that along with plenty of saffron, alcaparras (capers) and aceitunas ( olives) makes for a very tasty dish.  I cook my paella in a gas grille with the pan on top of the ceramic briquttes – this gives a very even cooking temperature.

What does this all look like when done?  Take a look at the following picture – all the stock has been consumed by the rice and the dish is ready to eat.  The trick to good paella is to cook it for the exact amount of time in order for the rice at the bottom of the pan to cook to a very nice crunchy crust (referred to as socorrat).  It is hard to do:  not enough time, and it won’t get crunchy and if you cook it too long it will burn.  If you get it “just right” though, it is fantastic.  Serve this great dish with a good Rioja or sangria and some good bread to close friends or family and you have a great dinner!

 

General Electric Wind Turbines

Not far from my cousin’s shop (where bowtie6 was born) is General Electric’s Turbine Assembly Plant in Greenville, South Carolina.  Some very interesting machines are built here.  Among them are the turbines that are used on windmill electric generators.

The generators are huge and pretty much require a special goose-necked lowboy with upteen wheels to properly distribute weight on the road.  Yes, there is also a railroad track that snakes its way into the GE plant and their very own “Blue Thunder” locomotive. Its a sight to behold to see the also specially built railroad car used to transport these behemoths.

Well the subject of today’s gallery is something a little more unusual.  You see, on one of their access roads this past weekend I spotted the above rig.  This is one of three blades used on the windmills.  I found it most interesting because of its shape, size and last but not least the device in which it was being transported.

The Blade

The blade is one of three.  The thing airfoil design is a thing of beauty.  The shape is extremely unusual in the “twist”, curvature and overall design.  I have if from a reliable source these blades are sculptured to the “n’th degree” in order to obtain the most efficient use of wind across their surface.  I am no aerodynamicist but just looking at this thing amazed the hell out of me.  The blade was wrapped in some sort of shrink wrap and when I tapped it, it sounded hollow and made of some high tech composite.  Can you say “big bucks”?

On the photos below you will see different angles of the blade as it was mounted on the transporter.  Interesting thing to note are all the studs sticking out of the root of the blade.  These things are all stainless and again, this ain’t cheap stuff!  Very impressive.

The Rig

The trailer this blade was mounted on is equally impressive.  The cradle was fully adjustable and from the markings on the pad it must have been mounted at some critical, weight-bearing spot on the blade.

The trailer was also a thing of beauty.  Fully adjustable and if you look closely, the rear bogies are steerable.  Not an ordinary trailer!

If you have any more insight on this and/or the blades – drop me a line.  I sure would like to know more about them…  Enjoy 🙂

Triumph Spitfire Engine Rebuild in Time Lapse Photography

I am not a fan of “original” Triumph engines.  Matter of fact, they are nothing but glorified tractor engines.  In the case of the Spitfire, they are pump engines.  However, there are many folks out there that spend generous amounts of cash rebuilding them – I guess to each their own!  For those of you :shock:, I thought this might be an interesting video.

Here is a time-lapse photography of a Triumph Spitfire engine rebuild.

And yes…  Before bowtie6 there was a Spitfire.  I actually owned a 1978 Spitfire with the optional factory hard top.  This thing was so much fun to drive but it only had a 1500cc engine and the dreadful 4 speed gearbox; no overdrive.  At highway speeds this thing sounded as if it were about to self destruct and blow up right there on the spot.  This was the primary reason I sold it.

At the time I took this picture, the engine been extensively modified.  The Zenith-Stromberg carburetter had a highly modified needle sourced from the UK, the intake had been seriously ported as well as the head.  It also had a four-into-one header.  The lightweight Panasport wheels were shod with Yokohama A008’s and boy did these things stick.  However they were pretty much slicks.

My cousin Jim also modified the rear suspension quite a bit.  These cars had a tendency to show some weird handling at the limit:  the leif-spring IRS would have the inside tire tuck in during hard cornering and this would cause some “surprises”.  To prevent this, Jim made a special control arm that prevented the dreaded behavior from happening.

In retrospect, I wish I still had this little blue car.  It would have a 2.2 liter version of the Ecotec in it and a custom-made frame with coilovers and a better rear suspension.  Imagine that!  With a real engine under the bonnet and a properly sorted out drive train, this thing would be a missile!  🙂

Fuel Regulator Fittings

The Ecotec engine uses a similar fuel delivery system as fitted in the LSx engines in that the fuel rail is “returnless”.  This means there is only one line feeding the fuel rail on the engine.  In order to make this work, a special fuel regulator with built in filter has to be plumbed not far from the fuel pump.  There are several fuel regulator fittings available and in today’s installment I’ll document my experiences.

In an earlier post, I wrote about bowtie6‘s Ecotec fuel system (click here) where I described the separate staging tank holding the fuel pump.  About two weeks ago, I noticed the insulation post around the fuel pump’s B+ terminal my cousin Jim had fabricated had deteriorated due to coming in contact with fuel from the tank.  In order to solve this problem, I had to take the small tank out which required disconnecting the fuel regulator fittings.  After putting all the bits back together I found the fuel regulator fittings were not exactly “clicking” correctly.  They held in place but I was not pleased with the fitment so I safety wired them in place as shown in the following picture:

We can all agree this is not exactly the most elegant way to do things.  So why the safety wire?  Well, turns out on the little plastic tabs that “click” the blue fitting in place are not exactly the best design in the world.  Sure, car manufacturers use them all the time and they work flawlessly.  However these are aftermarket units made by Russell (a division of Edelbrock) and they are not exactly OEM quality.  I found out this by experience and by reading the latest issue of Car & Craft’s engine swaps magazine.  So where is the problem?

The following photo shows one of the two pump-side lines going into the regulator.  I’ve removed the fitting so you can see the small ring around the metal tube (more on that later)…

The next photo shows the fitting and the small plastic clip that holds all this together:

The small white plastic clip is very cleverly made.  There are two sets of barbs on it.  The inner pair locks in place around the ring on the metal tube from the picture above this one.  That keeps the plastic piece from sliding out.  Then the barbs also lock in place on a shoulder inside the fitting.  However in order to make this work, the plastic spring loaded affair must be crisp and not in the least deformed.  Taking this apart deforms the plastic clip and this prevents a positive lock.

The last two pictures show the white plastic affair locked in place.  As mentioned previously, this assembly is then pushed on the tube in the regulator and if all goes well the two barbs on the plastic clip snap on the ring molded on the tube.  All this looks good on paper, but I noticed the plastic “clip” had lost some of its “spring” and this all did not really lock in place so well.  The kicker is that these fuel lines are holding 50+ psi pump pressure and if they decide to part ways, well… you end up having a real bad day.

Remember that magazine I mentioned above?  There was a very good article in that issue about fuel systems and they cautioned on using these fittings.  And, they also suggested an alternative.  Unfortunately, the alternative is also made by Russell.

I did call the Russell tech line and talked to a rather abrasive dude on the phone about my experiences.  Right of the bat, he was not very interested in my findings nor on making things right.  Basically he told me to buy the new fittings and took no ownership to the fact this was a bit on the “unsafe” side.  I even told him about the article in the magazine, but he dismissed that too.  At any rate why argue with someone unwilling to stand by their product so I ordered new fittings.  While not exactly “cheap” (they are about $16 each) quite frankly I rather spend the money and have the peace of mind this is not going to come apart and sling fuel all over the place.

The solution is to use these fittings:

These fittings have a much safer design.  Instead of the spring-loaded plastic affair, they have a threaded cap that holds the fitting in place.  The threaded cap has a “U” shape that slides over the tube on the regulator and when tightened grips the ring (look at the very first picture on this post) keeping everything securely in place.  With this together, there is no slippage and no danger of this ever coming apart.

This is what it looks like all completed:

As you can see, these fuel regulator fittings are much nicer and better designed.  If you are considering this for an engine swap, don’t waste your money on the fittings with the plastic spring-loaded clip.  Get the ones with the threaded cap.  You will be much happier and most important of all, safer.

 

S2000 Front Air Dam

When the S2000 was sold in Honda dealerships, there was a extensive collection of “factory accessories” available from the parts department.  Matter of fact, among the bunch of documents I got with my S2000 there was a brochure listing the accessories for the 2003 model year.  Needless to say, there are some that have sparked my interest.  However, since we are taking about a ten-year old automobile, some of these accessories are no longer available.

So what makes the genuine Honda part so special?  For starters is the fit and finish.  Sure,  there are many available aftermarket versions available on eBay for a substantial discount however from what I have read they don’t fit quite like the Honda version.  Next, the Honda part comes painted to match body color.  This is important.  Why?  Well have you priced automotive paint lately?

Well today I finally found a genuine Honda part.  Last week I had a chance to meet with a very nice group of local S2000 owners.  I mentioned I was looking for a front airdam lip and sure enough, a local member said “I’ve got one”.  Geez!  Talk about my lucky day!!  Today we met, and my new friend Andy produced a genuine Honda part in the correct color, brand new.  Cool!

Here is the “before” picture…

Here is what the air dam lip looks like before the install…

And…  Finally what the front nose looks like now with the lip in place:

The lip gives the front a little more aggressive look and I like it.  As a bonus, the colour matches 100%.  If I had a negative about all this it would be the mounting hardware.  This is what that looks like:

The part I was not very impressed with were the “U” clips provided with the kit.  They were very flimsy and as to be expected with something like this, they were extremely easy to cross-thread.  I ended up messing up one and it took quite some coercing to get the threads back to where they would accept the screw.

In the final analysis, I am very pleased with the “look”.  It certainly looks the part!