Monthly Archives: December 2011

TR6 Trunk Liner Kit

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The “original” TR6 trunk liner calls for this ugly cardboard material used to dress up the sides of the trunk.  There is also a piece that hides the tank.  In my case I wanted to try something a little different.  Something more modern and durable.

There is a local automotive interior supply warehouse close to where I live.  This is where I bought the sound deadening carpet backing material, the carpet and the black plastic material I used for the trunk liner.  This material is easily cut with scissors, although I used a shear (normally used to cut sheets of metal) to get crisper edges.  In order to form this material one can use a break and this plastic has enough “give” to make some very sharp edges.  The result looks very neat and is a zip to make.  Take a look at the driver’s side trunk panel:

I made the edges just a tad longer and this fits quite tight.  On the top side (near the trunk gasket) it fits quite tight and once you lower the gasket over the edge it actually helps support the plastic liner in place.  The greatest advantage is that on the back of the trunk it helps hide all the wires going to the tail lights.  You can see that more so in the next picture:

The pièce de résistance in the cargo net.  I know, not “original” but it is not only very attractive but also extremely useful.  Since I don’t have to carry a spare TR6 worth of parts and a full compliment of wrenches, I have a bit more room than the average British car owner ever dreams of having.  For example, when I make a quick run down to the grocery store I can put bags in there and the contents won’t go all over the place.  Similarly when going to a car show, I’ll put odds and ends in there.  A quick search on eBay will yield you a plethora of suitable options; that is where I found this one.  There is an elastic strand at the very top that holds the thing in place and on either side are two special hooks that catch the ends.  You can see that in the first picture above.

Here is the battery box.  This is all aluminium and there is a Red Top Optima dry cell battery inside.  These batteries are not cheap, but offer many advantages over all the others.  I’ve had this one for several years now and it is as strong as the day I bough it.  You can see in the background the same plastic material I used for the rest of the liner.

On closer inspection you can see two more details…

  1. To the right of the box is a thick cable.  This is the same kind of cable used for leads on a Miller TIG welding machine.  In this case, this is the heavy ground cable clamped to the negative side of the battery.  This cable goes through a rubber insulated opening in the floor of the trunk and the end is securely bolted to the frame.  This gives the body a hard ground.  Up front, in the engine compartment there are two more similar cables.  One is tied directly to the engine (grounding the Ecotec) and the other is tied directly to the body (making the body ground too).  Without solid grounds your electrical system will fail.
  2. On the left of the box you can see a silver plate.  Bolted to it are two circuit breakers an three relays.  The circuit breakers feed the relays which in turn supply the a) fuel pump, b) stop lamps and c) reverse lights with power.  I’ll have more about bowtie6‘s electrical system in a later issue.

And there you have it.  One thing about doing work like this is to think outside the box.  With so many modern materials available it is a shame not to use them.

ECOTEC Fuel System – Part 2

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Just a followup on yesterday’s post.  This time, a few pictures of the engine side of things.  Here is the fuel rail, on the extreme right is the fuel inlet and below the rail itself is the loom holding the wires for the injectors.

Here is the fuel supply side.  This one took some doing.  At the extreme lower side (close to the car’s body) you can see the end of the braided line.  That end has a crimped fitting that screws into the stainless steel line feeding fuel from the rear of the car.  That stainless line is held in place by these really cool brackets that unfortunately are not seen.  I’ll have to post about them in a later installment.  At any rate, on the other side of the braided line is another fitting that screws into the solid line shown below.

That line is basically a factory unit that has been modified bigtime.  Ther is a threaded fitting that was silver soldered that allows the braided line to be screwed on.  The reason why this had to start as a factory item is because of the special connector on the side of the fuel rail.  That one clicks into the tube sticking out of the fuel rail.  There is a special took that is used to take that out, by the way.

Finally, on the fuel rail itself you can see the Schrader valve (that black dot) on the right.  This is where you can tap a fuel pressure gauge into, for measuring fuel pressure.  This is all factory items.

Finally, this is what the injector underneath the fuel rail looks like. The rail looks rusted but that is only reflection from the red paint from the rest of the car.  In reality it is quite shiny.  This is number 2 injector going into the head.

And this keeps the engine alive and kicking!

ECOTEC Fuel System

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Supplying fuel to the Ecotec required a special delivery system.  Unlike the system we had in place for the V6, the Ecotec is a “returnless” design.  I’ll get back to that, but first let me describe what we had before with the V6.

The V6’s fuel rail required a “loop” for the fuel to flow in.  So a special made aluminium tank was made to fit the stock fuel tank location.  Since we wanted to extend the range, the tank was made larger.  This tank has two bungs, one is an output and the other a return.  The output was connected to an external high pressure fuel pump and plumbed to supply fuel to the fuel pressure regulator and ultimately the fuel rail up front on the engine.  A return line was also plumbed and this dumped unspent fuel back to the tank.  This is a “return” fuel system.

There are advantages to this design.  The pump can be easily serviced and replaced if needed.  However, these high pressure pumps are getting a little expensive these days.  Another advantage is that the fuel returns back to the tank and ensures a fresh supply of “cool” fuel – no vapour lock.  The big disadvantage and something that really screws up folks doing conversions is the tank must be modified (unless specifically designed like mine) to have a return line bung.

The Ecotec however, is part of the new design that does not use a return line.  With this system, there is a single line going to the fuel rail constantly supplying high pressure fuel to the injectors.  This posed some challenges for us.  Since we had made that nice alumimium tank, we did not feel like pulling it out and making a new one with only one output instead of the two used by the return system.

This is what it looks like now:

Whoa!  This looks busy.  Well, let me explain what is going on.  The fuel tank is covered with the black carpet.  At the very bottom, on the extreme right is the former “return” line input.  On the bottom of the tank you see another line feeding the small box on the left.  That is now the supply line into the small box holding the high pressure fuel pump (see picture below).  The fuel pump box above has two lines going up ending in blue fittings.  They supply high pressure fuel into the new fuel pressure regulator and combined fuel filter.  So you see, excess fuel goes back directly to the pump box.  The silver braided line coming out of the regulator feeds a stainless line that runs on the frame and feeds the fuel rail up front with high pressure fuel.  Very neat, and only one line goes forward.

This is what the fuel pump looks like.  The pump has a “sock” that mounts to the input side.  This is a pre-filter.  The rest of the bits are the rubber isolation tube on the left and the wiring adapter.  This is all GM as fitted to Corvettes.

OK – there is a reason for all this.  If you look closely at the tank you see a protrusion at the very bottom.  Even though the tank is baffled, when doing heavy cornering fuel has a tendency to starve the pump.  We solved that by making a special lower compartment that will not allow that.  Kinda like a windage tray on an oil pan.

The fuel pump tank (the small box) as described previously contains a submerged GM high pressure fuel pump.  The box has a “lid” held by several screws and machined to hold Vitrol “O” rings to keep fuel from leaking.  This is a tight seal.  The rubber line at the top of the fuel pump box allows air to escape, allowing the box to always be full of fuel.

The tank holds about 15 gallons and the small box holds about another gallon (give or take).  The beauty of all this is the fuel pump box always contains fuel.  When taking turns at high speed this all now ensured no fuel starvation.

Of course all this comes at a price.  All this has taken up precious space in the trunk but then again, I don’t carry a bunch of wrenches and spare parts like many other owners of “originally” restored cars do.  Furthermore, the extra fuel capacity offers a much more respectable driving range:  I have already been able to get 350 miles of city driving from a tankfull and still had some fuel left in the tank before filling it back.  I am hoping that once I get bowtie6 on a long trip on an interstate, I can reach the 400 mile mark.  Not too bad huh?

One more picture showing the custom made aluminium battery box housing an Optima Red Top battery.  Behind the battery box is the Triumph “bleed” tank that is plumbed to the fuel tank filler neck and allows fumes to be routed back to the intake side of the engine.