In the earlier post, I described the cutting and sectioning of the  top on the 1940 Ford my cousin Jim is working on.  Today’s post is a follow-up on the progress, which incidentally has been a lot!

As you can see from today’s featured image, the top has taken shape once again and looks more finished.  During this process, Jim found out there were alignment issues with the top itself.  Not from the alterations, but from the original stamping of the sheet metal.  As it turned out, the passenger’s side was not exactly symmetrical and required the use of a friction jack devise mounted inside the car while Jim welded the sheet metal inserts to make the top line up.

In the earlier post I described how a “filler” of sheet-metal had to be welded on the top to account for the material lost from chopping the top.  This section has been completely TIG welded, shaped and rough-sanded as shown in the following picture gallery…

If you look closely, you will notice the drip rails past the door opening have been cut off (more about that later in this post).  Also, you will notice the seam has some partial amounts of brass rod welded in.  This will eventually be filled all along the seam and sanded down to a smooth finish.  Think of this as a way of “leading” the seam.

And so we move to the back window opening…

As you can see, stretching the top required yet another filler, this time above the rear window.  Without the filler, the slope of the back top would not line up with the windshield and trunk area.  Amazing what cutting the top down by a couple of inches does to the geometry of the car!

Looking at the left picture above presented yet another problem:  the opening is out of proportion with the front.  But, that is the way it came from the factory, right?  Yes but that dimension made sense when the top was originally made.  With the “chop” the geometry went to hell and Jim decided – right or wrong – to make the window opening smaller.  Take a look…

A new section of sheet metal now takes up some of the space and makes the rear window opening proportional to the front.  And yes, this will need all new safety glass specifically cut to the new opening.  You can also see more details of the seam I mentioned earlier, with the brass rod filler.

Next, the following gallery shows a collection of pictures from the second section of filler…

What are all those black spots?  As it turns out, even with careful heat management during the welding of the filler strip, the top material warped.  What you see in those black spots is the result of careful heating followed by hammer and dolly work.  This method provides relief to the metal to shrink and expand, and thus remove the “oil can” effect introduced during the welding process.  I’ve seen Jim do this before and it takes careful application of heat otherwise it only makes the warping worse.

Here is a closeup of the area where the drip rail was removed:

Only a small part of the drip rail was left over the opening of the door.  The rest has been cut off and the seam will be eventually filled with brass welding rod.  Why not just use Bondo?  Well, this is a stress area and as flex takes effect the Bondo filler will crack.  So in a case like this it is best to fill the opening with metal.

And finally, the rear glass opening…

The opening has been left very large as to allow room for a “frame” that will eventually fit around a donor piece of glass.  One of Jim’s buddies has a junker Chrysler convertible with a nice glass rear window.  The plan is to cut the soft top on the Chrysler and remove the glass, cut all excess off and then make a frame to fit in this opening.  I’ll have more details on that in a future article.

My cousin Jim has been very busy since last time, as you can see in today’s featured image: the 1940 Ford has had its top chopped by about 1½ inches.  Also, if you look closely you can see the fenders have been modified to accept the headlights.  Jim has made special brackets to french the headlight buckets while retaining the original headlight surrounds (I’ll have more about this in a future post).

So how does one go about chopping a top on a 1940 Ford?  Well, you would start with a helping of courage and then “biggie size” that.  This is the kind of stuff left to the experts.  The famous disclaimer of “Do not attempt this at home, except by trained professionals…” comes to mind.  As you can see, Jim’s shop is very well equipped; matter of fact, this is the same room where we built bowtie6.

All pillars were cut and material removed, and it looks something like this (for those of you in the mailing list, please go to the website because galleries won’t show in the email):

As you have already figured it out, when material gets removed dimensions and geometry go to hell and things that used to line up, no longer do so.  The picture gallery above shows all pillars lining up as well as the windshield opening.  However, not all is so great.  Take a look at what the back looks like…

See what I mean?  Things don’t look so great here.  Amazing what taking 1½ inches off does to a top on 1940 Ford.  The back window opening has also taken a hit.  Jim plans to make a new opening to hold a new rear glass.  But I am getting ahead of myself.  By now, I am sure you are asking yourself “How does one fix this?”…

Well, this is where one must be good at a) using a welder b) having the skillz, c) talent, d) vision.  All welds – mind you – are just tacked welds using a TIG welder.  The welds look like this for a reason:  heat.  By doing tack welds like this with the TIG welder, prevents heat from warping the top.  This stuff takes hours do complete but prevents the top from “oil canning” which could take even longer to remove.  Pretty cool, huh?

And there you have it…  Something out of an old Frankenstein movie…  The top has been not only chopped but it has also been sectioned.  The solution called for a strip of sheet-metal, cut and shaped to fit and then welded in place.  This essentially “stretches” the top so the window openings and pillars all line up.  As you have already figured it out, there will be another cut (or cuts) where material will be added in order to make the back window and sides line up.

Chopping a top is similar to Fido’s asshole:  there are many and they all accomplish the same thing.  In this case, the top gets cut and shaped to fit.  I can’t wait to see final the result.  Stay tuned, I’ll have updates soon…

My cousin Jim’s latest project is a 1940 Ford Standard 2 Door Sedan.  Jim found this car perhaps a couple of years ago, stored under a shed away from sight and the elements.  The plans call for new aluminum panels, a new frame, chopping the top and a hot engine.

After getting the car to the shop, it was taken apart and the body panels taken to a local media blaster to remove what was left of the original black lacquer paint.   What Jim got back was remarkable:  a 75-year-old car, with less rust than that ultimate driving machine I wrote about in the earlier post.  But I digress…

If you know anything about a 40 Ford, I’m sure you have spotted something rather odd about the hood.  For one, it is not as “tall” as the original; for second, this one is hand-made from aluminum; and for third, it has a heat extractor…

Aluminum Hood for the 1940 Ford

Since Jim is not crazy about leaving things “factory” and because he has the skillz to do pretty much anything he sets up his mind to do with aluminum, he crafted a scratch-built aluminum hood for the 1940 Ford.

The hood consists of several carefully bent panels and then TIG welded together.  Each weld was then dressed to a perfect finish to hide any seams and to lower the amount of body work.  This hood has no filler!  I’ve left these pictures at a larger resolution than normal, so if you click on them you can zoom in and see the details.  On the back of the hood is a frame, bonded with automotive adhesive.  The same stuff used in modern cars, imagine that.

The Heat Extractor

How about the heat extractor on the front of the hood?

The inspiration for this vent came from the C5 Camaro, just like the one I have.  The slats are closer together compared to the ones on the Camaro, but the idea is there…  I think it looks pretty darn awesome and it will be the real deal, nothing fake here.  What is remarkable is that Jim made this months before I bought my SS Camaro.  This came from pictures we had from the GM Performance Parts wish book.

The Grille

From today’s featured image you can get a glimpse of the custom grille Jim has made for the 40 Ford.  Here is what it looks like in more detail:

Those are carefully bent aluminum rods attached to an upper and lower aluminum plates.  The center “Ford” badge is the handle that serves as the latch release mechanism.  I’ll have to write another article about that mechanism – it is pretty unique!

What Engine?

I’m sure by now you must be asking what engine will be under this slick hood…  Why an LSx!!  This is what the future will hold under that  hood:

This is still a work-in-process.  The engine show above is an LS3 but will not be the final version.  This is only used to mock-up the mounts and so forth.  The steering column is in, as well as the air conditioner and the brake master cylinders.  On the left you can see part of the fabricated latch mechanism.  Nothing there has been bought!

What About the Trunk?

Given the hood is aluminum, why not make the trunk lid aluminum too?  But of course…

The trunk lid consists of two halves.  They too have been TIG welded together and they follow the same principle of the hood regarding a backing frame.  Just like the hood, the panels have been bonded to the frame with automotive adhesive.

I’ll try to get more articles about Jim’s 1940 Ford as construction progresses.  Stay tuned!